GREENLAND

2024-06-17 : 2024-06-28

In the summer of 2024, I boarded the legendary MS Cape Race for an expedition around Disko Island on the west coast of Greenland. Our journey started in Ilulissat, or “icebergs” in the Kalaallisut language: a truly fitting name for this community. Our 12-day odyssey took us anti-clockwise around Disko Island to thriving communities like Saqqaq and haunting, abandoned towns like Qullissat. We ventured as far north as 4 degrees North in latitude. The icebergs were truly spectacular and many of these make their way north towards the top of Baffin Island and then south to the east coast of Newfoundland. In April 1912, it was one such iceberg that was hit by the Titanic. And it was the Cape Race Lighthouse, on the southeast tip of Newfoundland, that received its distress call at 12:15 am.

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Ilulissat

Ilulissat - Icebergs in Greenlandic - and the base to start our expedition on the MS Cape Race

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North to the Glacier

The plan was to visit the Eqi Glacier but ice conditions prevented even Cape Race from entering the fjord so we anchored in a nearby bay

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Saqqaq

Founded in 1755, this Inuit fishing village has population of around 175.

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Qullissat

A coal mining village established in 1924 with a population of up to 1,400. By 1972, the site had been completed abandoned, with the last 500 residents compulsorily relocated.

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Disko Island - West Coast

On the west coast of Disko Island facing Davis Strait and Baffin Island. This is where we came across the best iceberg of the entire trip

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Kangerluk

Originally established as a whaling station but now home to just 11 residents.

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Qeqertarssuaq -> Ilulissat

A brief stopover at Qeqertarssuaq with its black sand beaches and volcanic rock formations offering great hikes. Then we headed home through the icebergs to Ilulissat.

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Cape Race - The Boat

Built in Quebec in 1963, she sailed in the Grand Banks fishery off Newfoundland. Converted to an expedition ship in the mid-2000’s and fully overhauled to her current excellent condition in 2018/19. Much more here: https://mscaperace.com/en/

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